Alexander McQueen: Chrysalis chic and Metamorphosis mode

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Mar 6, 2018

Chrysalis chic at Alexander McQueen, in a collection themed around the idea of metamorphosis where the cast had butterfly-stung lips and tiny Scarab beetles crawled across many looks. A magical show from Sarah Burton for the house McQueen, in the most inspiring collection seen so far in an otherwise overly calm Paris season. 
 

A superb blend of bravura cutting; the key garment a series of remarkable elongated, curvy and powered shoulder tuxedos trimmed with fringes and lace inserts. Marvelous tough chic attitude – from the remarkable bottle-green leather tunic and kilt combo composed of double biker jackets worn by model and cellist Lily Stewart; to a cut-away skirt and black molded leather top worn by a lady with the most ample of bosoms; to a S&M bustier top over a floor-length mesh skirt and boots, up which hundreds of embroidered beetles crawled. Beautiful butterfly lady printed silk gowns over sculpted riding boots.
 
A cast that included four major veterans – Stella Tennant in a perfectly cut military double breasted coat finished with trailing threads; Guinevere Van Seenus in a cutaway black jacket and revealing lace skirt; Tasha Tilberg in a swirling black and red cape, with matching massive leather tote; and Liya Kebede in a crimson braided top that extended below her knees.

One of those shows where the sheer beauty of the clothes totally fired up the cast, prepared with their hair pulled back into a single, fetishistic noble braid.
 
A proud noble Celtic twist, for a brand whose much-loved founder was of Scottish descent. In a play on its roots, every single wooden folding seat inside the Carreau du Temple was covered by an Aran sweater – each of the jumpers bearing the guest’s name in a label inside. That way no one could pinch your place at this intense and brilliant show.
 
Proud women; hard glamour; bold brilliance; a cast marching briskly about a twisting catwalk, driven on by a techno beat inside the Carreau du Temple, redone with raw linen canvas walls. This was McQueen’s first appearance inside this massive late 19th-century-wrought iron and glass market, which has staged epic shows by a series of legendary designers: Helmut Lang, Yohji Yamamoto, Giambattista Valli, Hedi Slimane and Riccardo Tisci. Burton’s will rank as one of the greatest.